When most people think of Uganda, gorilla trekking understandably comes to mind first. And while seeing mountain gorillas in the wild is one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences on earth, on her recent visit to Uganda, Susan came away feeling that there is another destination that deserves a place on far more itineraries: Murchison Falls.

In her own words…

I traveled to Murchison Falls by road from Kampala, which takes most of the day but is surprisingly scenic and worthwhile if you enjoy seeing more of the country. Uganda is incredibly lush and green, with vibrant local life along the roadside, and we stopped for sweet fresh pineapple from roadside vendors — one of those small but memorable travel moments. We also visited the excellent Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Uganda’s only place to see rhinos in the wild, where you can track them on foot with a guide.

That said, if time is limited, reaching Murchison is very easy. A flight from Entebbe takes roughly an hour, making it a straightforward addition to a Uganda itinerary.

My first stop was the beautiful Nile Safari Lodge, set on the banks of the Nile River. We arrived just in time for a gorgeous sunset, with warm golden light reflecting off the water — the kind of arrival that immediately helps you settle into safari mode.

The lodge itself was a real highlight. Dramatic thatched roofs blend beautifully into the surrounding landscape, while the spacious suites feel luxurious yet relaxed, complete with indoor and outdoor showers and private balconies overlooking the river. The atmosphere felt warm and welcoming, with genuinely kind staff and an easy sense of comfort throughout the stay.

One of the things I loved most about staying here was how seamlessly the Nile becomes part of the experience. Boat cruises depart directly from the lodge, taking guests upstream toward the base of the falls, and for me, the river safari was one of the real highlights of Murchison.

Along the riverbanks, we saw hippos, enormous Nile crocodiles, elephants coming down to drink, buffalo, and wonderful concentrations of wildlife gathering at the water’s edge. The scenery from the river feels completely different from being on safari by vehicle and adds another layer to the experience.

For those with an interest in birding or simply spending time in beautiful forest, nearby Budongo Forest Reserve is also well worth exploring. The famous Royal Mile — considered one of East Africa’s best forest birding trails — offers a peaceful contrast to the open savannah of the park and a chance to experience another side of Uganda’s remarkable biodiversity.

While I would not compare Murchison Falls to the sheer scale and drama of Victoria Falls, they are certainly powerful and worth seeing while you are here, especially as it is just a short walk to the top on a paved pathway. What makes them particularly interesting is the setting and geology — the Nile squeezes through a surprisingly narrow gorge before continuing downstream, and viewing the falls both from below on the river cruise and from above at the viewing point gives helpful perspective.

What often surprises people most about Murchison, however, is just how good the game viewing is.

The park offers a classic safari feel, with sweeping savannah, palm-dotted plains, and excellent wildlife diversity. Murchison is also one of the best places in Uganda to see the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe, which are particularly striking and often seen in good numbers.

I also spent time at the brand-new Kulu Ora Camp. Set along the Nile, this intimate tented camp offers a more immersive safari atmosphere while still feeling stylish and comfortable.

One of the major advantages of staying here is access to a quieter, low-use tourism area of the park. The game viewing was fantastic, and the guides have been working hard to acclimate the wildlife to vehicles, with great success, as the animals felt notably relaxed around us. Highlights included lions resting in trees, elephant, buffalo, Uganda kob, Denham’s bustards, oribi, and even side-striped jackal. While exploring this area, we also stopped for a lovely bush breakfast, including a Ugandan rolex — a delicious local specialty made with chapati and eggs — which felt like a wonderfully authentic touch to the morning safari.

For travelers who appreciate camps with atmosphere and old-school safari charm, Papa’s Camp is also worth considering. Named after Ernest Hemingway — who famously survived two plane crashes at the very site where the camp is now located— it offers a more rustic tented experience. Simpler than some of the luxury lodges, it has plenty of personality and a lovely sense of place.

So, should you include Murchison Falls in your Uganda itinerary? For me, the answer is yes — and I would recommend at least three nights.

What makes it worthwhile is the balance it adds to the trip. Uganda is often associated almost entirely with gorillas and chimpanzees, but Murchison introduces a classic safari element — game drives, river experiences, wildlife viewing, and beautiful scenery — creating a more varied and rounded itinerary.