Our final stop in Uganda took us back by air to Kisoro followed by an hour’s drive to Mount Gahinga Lodge. It is located on the edge of Mgahinga National park, part of the Virunga range – home to one of Uganda’s gorilla families (together with Bwindi, Uganda is home to over half of the world’s population of mountain gorillas) as well as the cheeky golden monkeys.

We enjoyed a fun hour with the golden monkeys during our stay here, and their antics amongst the bamboo trees where they reside was hilarious as they zipped around us and watched us – our guide warned us to hang on to our cameras and phones, as these cheeky creatures have been tempted to grab them.

The lodge also has a strong relationship with the local Batwa community. The VSPT supported the creation of the community’s village and land for farming – the indigenous Batwa historically resided in the rainforests and were forcibly removed in 1991 and marginalized by the government without homes or rights. The community was involved in the design of the village and have learned farming methods and other educational opportunities. This region is a great combination with a Rwanda itinerary due to its proximity to the Rwandan border.

After a short drive, our group spent the remaining three days in Rwanda, first at Virunga Lodge before enjoying a final day in Kigali. As with the other VS properties, the lodge is positioned with incredible views, the spacious bandas are situated on either side of the hill, with either volcano or lake views! An incredible end to our wildlife experiences as we traveled to Volcanoes National Park headquarters for our Rwandan gorilla trek. Our hike took us up through farmland and into the rainforest where after a couple of hours we found our gorillas, the Sigasira family and enjoyed our magical hour with them. This family has some very entertaining babies.

Following the hike, we were able to enjoy some of the local experiences around the Musanze district including a visit to the Ellen DeGeneres campus of the Dian Fossey Fund and shopping at the local craft projects – we loved the Kinigi Women Village.

Back at the lodge we had the opportunity to participate in one of their community projects, their “One Sheep per Family” Project, which provides one sheep to each of the families in four nearby villages. The sheep manure provides natural and effective fertilizer for growing crops. As well as providing manure, selling lambs provides income for the family.  We also enjoyed some retail therapy at the lodge – in addition to the Kyambura Coffee, the curio shops offer locally made crafts including baskets, tablemats and the gorgeous kitenge bathrobes (a feature at all the properties, the patterns are stunning).

Throughout this trip, by land and air, I was constantly in awe of the stunning landscapes and rich soil and this was highlighted again on the drive to Kigali (I was also reminded why the the country’s tag line is Land of a Thousand Hills). Arriving in Kigali, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Retreat by Heaven before embarking on a tour of this vibrant city and its many hills. Our most poignant experience was a visit to the Genocide Memorial, in remembrance of those who died during the 1994 genocide and designed as a space for confronting the ideas that lead to genocide and a starting point for unity and global learning, something that is also part of the Rwandan education system.

Like our clients who have enjoyed incredible experiences in Uganda and Rwanda, I was reminded that both Rwanda and Uganda offer incredible experiences beyond the primates, yet they are a worthy draw. Whether it was the gorillas, the chimps or the golden monkeys, spending the hour in their presence observing their behavior was incredible, though they were observing us just as much.

On a practical note, I highly recommend hiring a porter who will assist over tricky terrain and carry your pack, while you are supporting the porter and their families. Be sure to bring masks, which are required for your hour with the primates.

For clients pondering the differences between Uganda and Rwanda, I would consider the following:

• Gorilla trekking – in Rwanda, all the habituated families (currently 10) are reached from the Volcanoes National park HQ. Once you are allocated, you have a short drive to the trail head. In Uganda, there is one gorilla family in the Mgahinga National park, with the remaining families (21 habituated groups) in Bwindi, though in different sectors – something to consider when booking lodging, as you may have a drive of more than an hour to your trail head. NOTE: Gorilla families do occasionally cross borders – a new census is due next year, so stay tuned for an updated count.
• Golden monkey trekking – offered only in Volcanoes National park and Mgahinga National park, so something to consider when planning!
• Most guests drive from Kigali to either Volcanoes National park or Mgahinga National (an extra 90 minutes depending on border crossing formalities). In contrast, guests visiting Bwindi will arrive into Entebbe and continue by air to Bwindi – about 1 hour flight.
• Both Uganda and Rwanda offer classic safari experiences, as well as chimp trekking, offering clients the opportunity to create a full itinerary in just one country. Again, the size of Rwanda makes it perfect for a full overland itinerary, whereas clients should plan to travel around Uganda by air (or a combination of land and air)

Give us a call to begin planning your own primate adventure in Uganda and/or Rwanda!